Showing posts with label absinthe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label absinthe. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Types of Absinthe

Not a lot of people even understand what absinthe is.  So of course, even fewer understand the different styles.  For the purpose of this post, I'm going to go over four styles of absinthe: French, Swiss, Czech, and "fake."

French style absinthe is the green absinthe, or absinthe verte, that most people think of when they think of absinthe.  In addition to the wormwood and anise, these absinthes are flavored with a variety of other botanicals.  After being distilled, they also are macerated again with herbs and botanicals, which gives the bottled spirit a green color, and causes the louched product to also be a cloudy green color.  Their flavor, while having a heavy licorice flavor from the anise, and also quite bitter from the wormwood, is more complex and balanced due to the heavy presence of other botanicals.

Swiss style absinthe is the clear (in the bottle) absinthe which louches a cloudy blueish white color.  These tend to be produced with a mix of botanicals that is heavier on the wormwood and anise, rather than the variety of other botanicals.  They also are not re-macerated, which is why they remain clear, rather than being bottled green.  The lack of the coloring stage also means that the flavors tend to be cleaner, and more focused on licorice and bitterness.

Czech or Bohemian style absinthe is really more like a wormwood bitters than anything else.  There is no anise or other botanicals, it is just a high proof spirit flavored with wormwood.  It is very bitter, which might explain why in the 1990s "Czech style" absinthe service, where the sugar cube is soaked in absinthe and lit on fire, was created, to caramelize the sugar, burn off some of the alcohol, and dilute the absinthe at the same time.

"Fake" absinthes are absinthes without wormwood.  I hesitate to call them fake, because some of them are still great products, but they are not true absinthes.  This category includes all brands of Pastis, Absente, Herbsaint, and others.  They are often a lower alcohol percentage than true absinthes as well.  These were mostly created in France, as well as New Orleans (Herbsaint) during the 100ish years when true absinthe was only legal in Spain, Holland, the Czech Republic, and Australia. By the time that absinthe was banned, it was an integral part of several cocktails, so people created this type of spirit in order to contribute the same flavor profile and coloring/clouding effects to a cocktail, without breaking the law.

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Liqueurs, brandies, cordials, and "other spirits"

Basically, spirits are organized into 8 "families," or types of spirits.  Those are, in no particular order: vodka, gin, rum, tequila, whiskey, brandy, liqueurs, and "other spirits."

When someone mentions one of the first five, a pretty good idea probably comes to mind as to exactly what they mean, but the last three get confusing for most people.  Add to that the fact that you often see things sold as "cordials" and it can get really weird.  This post is an attempt to demystify some of these classifications.

Brandy is the easiest and narrowest to define of these categories.  It is a spirit distilled from a wine, which in turn is an alcoholic beverage fermented from fruit.  This is what separates it from the other categories.  Within brandy, there are three basic types: grape brandy (often called just brandy), fruit brandy, and pomace brandy.

Grape brandy is brandy made from grapes.  In other words, it is basically distilled table wine.  It is usually barrel aged (more on this later).  This is what Cognac and Armagnac are known for.  If a bottle is labeled just "brandy" it is most likely made from grapes.  Although this is changing, especially with U.S. craft distillers, I misled a little bit when I called it distilled table wine.  The base wine is usually, although, not always, made from different grapes than the wine we are used to drinking.  The ideal wine is high in acid, moderate in sugar, and low in alcohol, which, while making it rather unpleasant to drink on its own, allows it to hold up to both distillation and extensive aging.  In fact, brandy is the one drink which it is believed does not hit a "peak" of ideal age, after which it starts to decline.  Some fine brandy is aged many decades, and it is believed that the best brandies in the world only continue to get better in the barrel.

Pomace brandy is also made from grapes, but not from the juice or wine.  This brandy is made from the pips, skins, stems, etc. left over after wine grapes are pressed.  It is usually served unaged.  Pomace brandy, marc, and grappa are all examples of this category.

Fruit brandy is brandy made from fruit other than grapes.  Apple brandy is a common one, followed by pear, cherry, and peach.  Many Eastern European countries also drink plum brandy.  This can be served aged, or unaged.  Unaged brandy, whether from grapes or other fruit, are known as eaux-de-vie (water of life), and are clear.  Aged brandies are darker in color.  Calvados and applejack are common apple brandies.  Kriek, poire, and framboise are common ways to label cherry, pear, and raspberry brandies, respectively.  A brandy made from fruit other than grapes will almost always be labeled including the fruit.  That is, it will be labeled as a "Raspberry Brandy," rather than "Brandy."

Liqueurs are often confused with brandies, especially fruit liqueurs and fruit brandies.  The key distinction here is that fruit brandies are distilled from that fruit.  Liqueurs, on the other hand, can have any base spirit, but are flavored, and have a sugar content between 2.5% and 30%.  Examples are triple sec, Drambuie, Benedictine, curacao, Grand Marnier, schnapps, crème de menthe, crème de cacao, etc.
Proprietary liqueurs are liqueurs which refer to a specific brand name, i.e. Grand Marnier, Bailey's, Kahlua, while generic liqueurs are generally accepted flavors of liqueur which may be available in multiple brands, i.e. curacao, crème de menthe, crème de banana, etc.
An interesting liqueur to consider is Grand Marnier.  Many people think Grand Marnier is an orange brandy, rather than an orange liqueur.  This is where it is tricky.  Grand Marnier has a brandy base. The orange flavor and sugar, however, are added into the brandy (which has a grape base).  This makes Grand Marnier a brandy based orange liqueur.  In order to be an orange brandy, Grand Marnier would need to be distilled from oranges.

Cordials are a category with different meanings in different parts of the world.  In the U.S., they are synonymous with liqueurs.  The EU, however, recently changed their definition to mean a non-alcoholic ingredient.  So beware, if shopping in Europe, your cordials will not have alcohol!

Other Spirits are not really one of the major families of spirits, and that's kind of the point.  They were fairly unimportant until recently.  With the resurgence of spirit forward cocktails and bitter cocktails, and with the re-legalization of absinthe, they are gaining in popularity.  There are basically three major categories (in my objective opinion) to consider here: bitters, absinthe, and unsweetened liqueurs.

Bitters include two groups of spirits.  One I call mixing bitters and one I call drinking bitters, although in reality, both are primarily used as ingredients in cocktails.  Mixing bitters are usually sold as bitters and come in small bottles to be used by the drop or dash in cocktails.  They include Angostura, Peychauds, orange bitters, etc.  People often forget that these are spirits, as they are alcoholic (usually very high alcohol content, in fact).  Drinking bitters usually come in full sized bottles, and, although it is not very popular, can be consumed on their own, or used as the base in a cocktail.  These include Campari, Lillet, Fernet, etc.  These are on the rise in current cocktail culture.

Absinthe I discuss in more detail here.

Unsweetened liqueurs are essentially flavored spirits which either are not sweetened at all, or are not sweetened enough to be considered a liqueur.  Although frequently sold with, and considered liqueurs, they are not technically a liqueur.  These are also gaining in popularity, as craft distilleries become more popular, and overly sweet cocktail go out of fashion in favor of more spirit forward drinks.

Questions?  Have a favorite brandy or liqueur?  Let me know in the comments!

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Absinthe? Is it legal? Is it safe? Will it make me crazy?

Absinthe is one of the most misunderstood and mysterious spirits on the market.  Its history is full of road bumps, prohibitions, and myths that make it that much more confusing, and appealing.  So, here's a list of the common questions people ask about absinthe.

What is Absinthe?
Absinthe is a spirit with grand wormwood, green anise, and fennel flavoring.  Unlike most other spirits, it is not overly regulated or protected by laws, meaning distillers can make any number of products, and legally call them absinthe.  It also does not fall into any of the seven major "families" of spirits (vodka, rum, gin, tequila, whiskey, liqueur, or brandy), since it does not meet requirements for any of them, and unlike liqueurs (which can similarly contain just about anything) is not bottled with any artificial or added sweetness.  So absinthe can have a fruit (usually white grape, and typical of the most traditional high-end absinthes) or grain base.  It can be redistilled to instill flavors and colors, or can have them added through essential oils or compounds (cold compounding).  They can be clear, or any number of shades of green.

That being said, absinthe is usually a fairly high proof (90-148 proof) spirit which tastes like a very herbal version of licorice and contains wormwood or wormwood oil.

Is absinthe legal?
In most parts of the world, at present time, yes.  In some countries (Spain , Portugal, the UK, and others), absinthe has always been legalIn most other Western countries, absinthe was banned some time between 1906 and 1915.  Most of those bans have been lifted between 2000 and 2011, due to conflicts with EU regulations, with other national food or beverage laws, or just a general cultural shift.

Is the absinthe that's now legal in the U.S. real?
Yes.  The largest confusion in this is that there was a product, pre-2007, which was called "Absente," which contained no wormwood oils, and was artificially sweetened, but was similar in flavor profile to absinthe.  This product was nothing like the "real" absinthe available at the time in parts of Europe.  In 2007, the FDA redefined a part of the food codes to declare anything with under 10mg/kg of thujone could be called "thujone free," and thus could be legally produced, imported, and sold in the United States.  This limit is lower than in some European countries, so our absinthe may have less wormwood and thujone in it than some European brands, but it does contain all the same ingredients.

What is thujone?  Is it really a hallucinogen?
Thujone is the chemical found in wormwood which is in the same family as THC (the chemical in pot which gives it its psychoactive properties).  Although both critics and artistic fans of absinthe claimed that this chemical gave it dangerous hallucinogenic properties, this has been scientifically disproved.  Thujone, and thus absinthe, will not make you hallucinate.  Nor will they trigger the same receptors that THc will in the brain.  That being said, it is not conclusively proven one way or the other whether thujone has psychoactive properties independent of alcohol.  Toxicity studies have shown both psychological and physiological effects of thujone, but only in concentrations nearly impossible to reach by drinking absinthe, especially since the high proof would lead to experiencing serious alcohol issues long before the threshold for these effects of thujone were felt.

That being said, in my personal experience, abisnthe gives a different type of buzz.  It is much more mellow, and clear-headed than the buzz I get off of drinking other spirits.  It is a little thought provoking, or some might even say "mind opening."  Then again, I've experienced a different type of "whiskey buzz" than "vodka buzz," and different types of buzz based on where I am and who I'm with, so we'll leave it for the scientists to figure out if the "absinthe buzz" is caused by thujone, one of the many other botanicals used in absinthe production, or just the experience of the whole absinthe ordeal.

Got questions?  Comments?  Suggestions for future posts?  Post them in the comments, or send them to livingbuzzed@gmail.com or @livingbuzzed on Twitter!